Two days at sea

Sunday, February 24, 2019
Monday, February 25, 2019

Where am I?

Quickly approaching Auckland, New Zealand.

Please pardon the horizontal blue line in the map. This is an aberration in the software caused by crossing 180º longitude.

So, what’s been happening?

As I mentioned in an earlier post, I really enjoy my days at sea. They give me the opportunity to “recharge my social battery” and to do the kinds of things that I love to do (which might be considered “wasting time” at home.) One of those “things I like to do sometimes” is to create a little mischief.

My stateroom attendant’s name is Ayu (more on that later.) Ayu is the one who keeps my room neat and pretty, and who also makes the towel animals. She has treated me to some kind of a creation every night of this trip (which, at this point makes 33 nights in a row.) Today, I decided it was my turn to make a towel thingy.

With some inspiration provided to me from John Hibbert (by way of Julie Tolle) I set up to put a little art into Ayu’s life in a similar manner. And with that inspiration, I created this:

Who says airplane toilets can’t suck you down?

After I finished creating this guy, I turned out the lights, closed the door to the “head” (that’s ship’s talk for bathroom) and left my room for a few hours. As I walked away I was experiencing the same feeling I would get when I had just loaded a mousetrap with cheese, pried the hammer back, and gingerly locked the keeper in place: tense, but confident in my work.

When I returned, Ayu (who was working on neatening up somebody else’s room) saw me pass by in the hallway. She immediately ran out of that room and made sure that I could see her full presence. Without any further hesitation or notice of anybody else being nearby, she called me out and exclaimed, “Robert, you scared me!”

Mission accomplished!

Later in the day

Sunday evening, after my almost daily trivia ritual, was a gala dinner night in celebration of the Oscars. Now, the only person who hates to put on a suit more than I is Matt Tolle so he, at least, will understand why I chose to eat a light dinner on the Lido deck instead of getting all gussied up. But the celebratory atmosphere was not completely lost on me. I love the Oscars and the whole world of entertainment in general. Around sunset, the weather was still absolutely beautiful and it drew me outside for a little dessert and entertainment.

Dessert and entertainment

I gleefully and briefly interrupted my dessert in order to soak this up:

As you can imagine, I really didn’t mind the interruption.

And, what else?

On Sunday night (Saturday in Phoenix) I was surprised by a video call from home! Four of my best friends broke into my home, drank up all of my booze and nearly had the cops called on them because others who are watching my house did not know they were coming! (I hope you can hear my voice as you read my words. I’m just kidding about most of that.)

This was the most personal intimate contact I’d had with anybody from home since I left to take this magnificent trip. I was completely choked up at the expression of care and concern about me. Let me introduce you to four of my closest friends in their natural state.

Matt (left) and Joe (right)
Elease (left) and Julie (right)

Yes, some might consider these people to be a little odd. I certainly do! And yet, I love them dearly. Thanks for the call!

So, who is Ayu?

It has been pointed out to me that I have not shared with you, gentle reader, any information about the new friends and acquaintances I have made while aboard the Amsterdam. For this, I apologize as I was sure that most of you were interested only in the geographical aspects of my travels. I have been corrected and I will now start to add some “color” to my posts by introducing you to those people that I have found to be a pleasure to be around.

World, this is Ayu

Ayu, is my stateroom attendant. She is from a small town Indonesia, not too far from Bali. She’s very smart, well educated, speaks perfect English, and just might be in the wrong job.

Ayu is not just my towel animal maker, she has also become a good friend over the last month. I mean, I see her twice a day, every day, so we should be friends, right? There were times when I didn’t see my ex-wife that often.

I am broken hearted that Ayu will be leaving the ship when we stop in Bali. We’ve made a wonderful connection and I will miss that. Hopefully, her replacement will be equally personable.

Next stop: Auckland, New Zealand.

What is it?

OK, the last towel animal I presented to you was this one.

What is it? #11

And, if you guessed an anything-o-saur, then you were absolutely correct. Ready for another? Of course you are! So, here you go. What is it?

What is it? #12

You can record your guess in the “Reply” section of this post, or you can just send me a message by some other form. Good luck!

Tonga

Saturday, February 23, 2019

Well, as I woke up this morning, I’m still in pain. I had purchased a shore excursion to see the sights of Tonga this morning (I learned from my Bora Bora experience) but when the time came to get out of bed and get on with it, I had great difficulty raising myself up from the mattress. Once I was on my feet, I walked around the stateroom a few times to try to measure how I might fare on the excursion. Ultimately, and with great disappointment, I elected to not go. I really didn’t think I could stand any jarring motion as that is the kind of thing that really aggravates my condition.

So, I went back to bed.

My ticket to a day of sight-seeing.

A few hours later, I managed to get back out of bed and took a long hot shower. I let the water beat down on the epicenter of my injury for many minutes. In the end, I must confess that I felt somewhat better. I got dressed and went out to the Lido deck to, at least, get a glimpse of Tonga.

I have had a relationship with Tonga for many years. If you look at my email address, it ends in “ifyouwant.to”. The “.to” part of that email address stands for Tonga and it has been because this island nation offered the world access to their Top Level Domain that I could acquire an email address that gathers so many nice comments.

From the Lido deck, aft, I could see that Tonga, unlike Bora Bora, is a very flat place. I could see no mountains. (In Bora Bora, I could see no flat places!) Actually, the view reminded me very much of my visits to Florida.

Looking at Nuku’alofa, the capital and largest city in Tonga.

Tonga is a country made up of islands. 169 islands, to be exact. Some of those islands could be seen lying just offshore of Nuku’alofa (which is the capital of the country.)

Can you see the islands?

From where I was perched on the open-air deck, I could also see that the Tongans had set up a little marketplace on the pier just outside of the ship’s gangway. I decided right then and there that I was not going to come this far and not touch Tongan soil, back pain be damned! So I went down to, at least, take a look at what the vendors were selling and maybe pick up a souvenir.

The impromptu marketplace was strung out along the pier for what I would presume was the length of a city block. The vendors had created little “tents” out of collapsible awnings. Inside those “tents” could be found a variety of handicrafts. The were some beautiful animals carved from wood, some shell jewelry, and lots of the ever-present t-shirts.

Vendor’s row

I walked to the end of the pier, and then tried to walk into town, but after just a couple of blocks I decided that I was pushing the limits of my aching back. Maybe it would not serve me well to put too much stress on those muscles that were, only an hour ago, just starting to show some signs of healing.

So, I turned around and headed back toward the ship. On this pass, however, I decided to do some serious shopping and find something to help me remember this place and this day and how great it is to be on this trip of a lifetime. And, I found a souvenir that I think will serve me well for years to come. What do you think?

Robert goes Polynesian! (Though I’ll bet the shirt is made in China.)

Coming back aboard the Amsterdam, I took a moment to consider some of the other passengers that I saw around me, many of whom were using walkers, canes, and even those “Hoveround” scooter things. Today was my first walk-around in several days, but I was out on the pier today enjoying my recovery. I may recover quickly, or it might take a few days more. In either case, I used that moment to focus on my good fortune. I am so lucky to be as spry as I am (though my spryness is suffering just a bit at the moment) and to know that my temporary disability is just that: temporary. So many others around me will never recover from their disabilities, may God bless them. I have flirted with not being able to walk around properly, and I don’t like it. I may yet face a more permanent disability but for now I feel that I can look trouble in the face and say, “Not today!”

Welcome home!

After returning to the ship, I went back out to the Lido deck, aft (also known as the Ocean View Lounge) ands enjoyed a couple of Anchor Brewery’s Liberty Ales and enjoyed the tropical warmth.

I didn’t get to do what I set out to do today, but it was a very good day, nonetheless! My “shore excursion” was very brief but I found a souvenir, chatted with the locals, gave thanks for my improving physical condition, and focused on being in this glorious moment.

Not such a bad day, eh?

Three days at sea!

Tuesday, February 19, 2019
Thursday, February 21, 2019
Friday, February 22

Where am I?

Between Bora Bora and Tonga, on Thursday

What’s been happening?

Tuesday

On Tuesday night, during some rough seas, I managed to injure myself. While returning from the “head” I was getting back into bed, slowly and in the dark. I had just made it to the very edge of the mattress when the ship was tossed by a large wave and I was rolled off of the mattress. My feet hit the floor, but my left side was held up just under the ribs by the edge of the side table. It hurt like the Dickens, but I was sure that I’d feel even more pain the next day. Makes me feel like I’m regressing to a childhood state again by falling out of my bed.

Killer side table!

Thursday

The first thing you should notice is the list of dates for this post. See anything peculiar? I assure you, there’s no mistake.

I went to bed Tuesday night and woke up Thursday morning after an eight hour sleep. It sounds strange, and I think it was. During the night Tuesday, the ship observed the International Date Line and we lost a full day. This is what happens when you cross the line while traveling from east to west. The ship did not change the clock time, only the date. So what happened was we “officially” changed time zones from GMT-10 to GMT +14. The time on the face of the clock stayed the same, but the day of the week did not. The calendar “magically” went from Tuesday to Thursday. I think this is the first week of my life that did not have a Wednesday.

And, to commemorate our crossing of the International Date Line, we all received this certificate.

It’s official! I’ve crossed the International Date Line. Now, if I could just find myself an International date! Or just a local date, even!

Also, this afternoon I visited the ship’s doctor as the pain in my back is much stronger than I expected. I want to rule out any bruising to internal organs. The doctor did as much as a ship’s doctor can do. He did eliminate several medical possibilities (like a cracked rib), so he and I are now operating under the likelihood that I just have a deep bruise, but a bruised spleen or kidney cannot be completely ruled out. The plan is to wait a week or so to see how and if my condition changes. If I position myself just right, I don’t feel any pain at all, but if I try to use the muscles in the impacted part of my back, I nearly go through the roof with pain. Here’s to hoping that things improve quickly!

Tonight, the rain showers came in. Watching the weather aboard ship while cruising in the South Pacific is really interesting. One moment I’m looking at the stars trying to identify the Southern Cross, the next minute it is raining torrentially! Here’s Thursday night’s version of a “wet bar.”

Wet bar?

Friday

Nothing to report today, and that’s largely because I never left my stateroom. I’m hoping that by giving myself some complete rest my injured back might start to show some sign of healing.

Next stop: Tonga!

Bora Bora

Monday, February 18, 2019

Where am I?

Anchored in the middle of Bora Bora

What happened today?

Well, I really screwed up today, and that’s just about the whole story. Here’s what I did (and didn’t.)

I got up this morning and prepared myself to go ashore. I hopped on the tender at about 12:30pm. The tender dropped us off at the docks in Vaitape which is the largest settlement in Bora Bora. Once I reached the docks, people were going through a gauntlet of vendors and tour operators and other touring related stuff. I decided to bypass the line and go take this photo of our ship in the bay.

Ms Amsterdam anchored in Bora Bora

I also bypassed the line of tour operators because I wasn’t planning on taking a tour today. I was planning to find a nice pub with some good wifi and spend the afternoon kicked back and enjoying the wonder of Bora Bora. My decision to do this came about due to two reasons. 1) The costs for any tour offered in Bora Bora was some of the most expensive that I’ve seen so far. Like $250 for a 4 hour jeep ride. 2) The bartender on the ship told me there was a very good watering hole right across the street after you disembark from the tender.

So, after snapping my photo of our ship I headed toward the main street of town to find that pub. When I got to the main road, there was nothing to be found that even remotely resembled a pub. So, I turned left and walked about 3/4 of a mile until I was at the end of town. (Vaitape is a really tiny place.) Along the way I did pass a little café stuck back in a corner of a parking lot and it did have a couple of beer signs. But it was tiny and open-air. I figure the little café could not be the pub that the bartender told me about. So, I turned around and went the other way for about one mile. At that point, I had reached the other end of town. A woman working in a travel agency saw me meandering and came out to help me. She asked me if I was looking for something in particular and I told her I just wanted to find a nice place to sit down and enjoy a cold beer. She then informed me that the only place in town to get a beer (other than the grocery store) was that little corner café.

So, I returned to the café, had a salad and a beer. At that point I had one bottle of the only brand of beer they had in stock, I had been to both edges of town, I had seen it all and there wasn’t anything to see. Confused and dismayed, I returned to the ship.

Downtown Vaitape, Bora Bora.

That evening, I learned from some fellow travelers that, had I stayed in line and run the gauntlet of tour operators, I would have learned about the $5 shuttle bus that runs around the island every 30 minutes. It goes to those postcard-like beaches on the south part of the island and passes by all of the resorts where one can buy a day pass and hang out at the pub, resort style!

I didn’t know that, so I didn’t get to see the best part of Bora Bora, my favorite South Pacific island, so far. Doh!

The island is breathtakingly beautiful, from wherever you stand. or float! We weren’t the only cruise ship in the bay, either. A Windstar cruise ship was there. It’s so much smaller than the Amsterdam yet it looks like it is completely modern, except for those masts! I would love to see that ship in full sail!

So, just as I wrote when I started this post, I repeat: I screwed up! Or perhaps I’ve just laid the foundation for a future trip to Bora Bora when I can hang out for a couple of weeks and get to know the island better. Dunno. Maybe.

I don’t even have a “sail away” photo for you this time as the ship didn’t leave Bora Bora until about 10:30pm. Sorry, I’ll try to do better, else this will wind up being a completely wasted trip around the world!

P.S. The photo at the top of this page shows you what I came back to this evening, hanging in my stateroom. I’m doing what I can to keep that monkey off my back!

Mo’orea? Nope. Day at sea.

Sunday, February 17, 2019

Where am I?

As we left Pape’ete this morning, the weather had not really improved. As we left the harbor, I’m sure that everybody hoped things would indeed be better by the time we reached Mo’orea. Mo’orea is a small island to the northwest or Tahiti (and the home of the overwater bungalow!) As we approached the island of Mo’orea, the ship slowed down to (hopefully) wait out the very strong winds. If the winds died down we might be able to stop here and safely tender ashore.

The Captain seemed to hold out for as long as he could until the time came when a decision had to be made. Wait out the bad weather, or cancel this stop and head to the next stop in hopes of better conditions. In the end, the Captain’s voice came over the loudspeaker system, announcing that:

  • The wind was blowing with gusts up to 50mph
  • The ocean was very choppy (as we could all see)
  • Mo’orea has no place for us to dock, so tenders would be required
  • Tour operators on the shore were indicating that tender operations would be very “iffy.”
  • The sum of all of these things added together was that the Captain was canceling our stop in Mo’orea.
,

Instead of our scheduled stop, the Captain stepped on the gas and we sailed to Bora Bora. Bora Bora was to be our next stop, anyway, so we just arrived in Bora Bora a tad early.

We entered the harbor at Bora Bora, and anchored. From where the Amsterdam sat in the center of the atoll, the sky was only partly cloudy, the air was warm and still, the sun was going down, and I got my first glimpse of the prettiest island I’ve seen so far on this trip.

Bora Bora at sunset.

The Captain did begin tender service for those who wanted to go ashore, but I decided to hold off going ashore until tomorrow. Tonight, I just wanted a cold beer, a cigar, and the chance to stare at this lovely place called Bora Bora.

More tomorrow.

Pape’ete, Tahiti, French Polynesia

Saturday, February 16, 2019

Where am I?

Our ship is docked at Papeete, Tahiti.

Pape’ete, Tahiti, French Polynesia

What happened today?

It’s a blustery, rainy day on Tahiti. The ship is docked in the harbor and downtown Pape’ete is in clear view. As I look out over the downtown part of the city, I’m just a little disappointed. Perhaps because I’ve only seen Tahiti in the movies or on TV, and as a result I pictured Tahiti, in my mind, to be an pristine island paradise with white sand beaches, beautiful women with flower leis, blue skies, and a cool breeze. This morning I see a crowded downtown, economic depression, no beaches (in view) and it’s overcast, hot, and rainy.

Downtown Pape’ete

I had paid for a tour for today. It was supposed to show me the wonders of Tahiti. In spite of the rain, I was anxious to go out and see more of the island than this anticlimactic view of the inner city I was faced with at that moment. At about 1:30, I boarded the bus to go see the sites.

Fortunately for us, this was a Saturday and there was not as much traffic as there would have been Monday through Friday, according to our tour guide. She told us that some people who live in the “suburbs” about 36 kilometers outside of the city must expect 90-minute commutes to get to work, then the same deal going home. This news makes me happy that I’m not one of them, not here, nor anyplace else for that matter!

Once we’re outside of the greater Pape’ete area, things start to look more like the Polynesian paradise of the movies. There’s lush growth, I can see the waves breaking over the coral reef far offshore, and the people look as though there are truly living on “island time.”

Our bus stops at a park on Point Vénus. This point of land was originally used by Captain Cook for scientific purposes and is now a beautiful seaside park, though its natural beauty may have been a bit concealed today, owing to the rainy weather.

When Captain James Cook made his second trip to Tahiti in 1769, he had two goals: 1) to witness the transit of Venus, and 2) to find the great southern continent. Cook built a tower that would allow him a good vantage point to observe and study the transit. Once the tower was built and the equipment needed to accomplish the observation was in place, the equipment was stolen, according to our tour guide. Cook and some Tahitians went looking for the equipment, found it, and had it returned to the tower and reinstalled. This was accomplished just a day or two before the predicted transit. On the actual day of the transit, the sky was clouded over and no observation could be made. Cook travelled half way around the world to see this transit and could not see a thing.

By the way, he never found a great southern continent, either.

Aside from the historical tower (which now serves as the only lighthouse in Tahiti) the beach and park that is now Point Vénus was filled today with Tahitians enjoying the atmosphere, seemingly not at all worried about a little rain. Here are a couple of photos from Point Vénus.

We left Point Vénus and did about half of our circumnavigation of the island in our tour bus. At some point, we stopped at a botanical park to see some of the native species of flora and fauna.

Entering the botanical garden

The park had a gorgeous waterfall, thanks to all of the rain we had been experiencing both today and the night before.

Waterfall on the North side of Tahiti

The heat and the rain also keeps many species of tropical plants in bloom for much of the year. Here, in the Tahitian summer, there were many strange and colorful flowers to be found. Pictured below are just a few that caught my attention.

Lovely flora. But what about the fauna? Well, the number one animal seen everywhere in Tahiti is this one.

Chicken. Just a chicken.

Our tour guide explained to us that chickens can be seen everywhere. They are a feral animal on the island. Nobody owns them, and nobody raises them. They just strut around, coming and going as they please following whatever whim might be in their little bird brains. Also, nobody chases them away! It seems as though the chickens are very good at pest control and are especially good at containing the cockroach population. Nobody wants cockroaches, so the chickens are always welcome, whenever they’re around. Even in the botanical garden.

A hen and her chicks scratch for grubs at the botanical garden.

We left the botanical garden with one more planned stop ahead: a dramatic black sand beach. We drove for a few miles and then made a stop at this beach:

Black sand beach on Tahiti’s east side.

The sand here was as black as coal! There’s nobody out on the beach because of the rain, but I walked out a ways to try and snap a quick photo before it started to rain again and I would get wet.

Well, I got wet. Those storms move fast over this island!

After our beach stop the bus took us safely back to the ship. I was very happy that I spent a half day getting to see a more tropical more primitive side of Tahiti. It was certainly an afternoon well spent.

What is it?

Previously I asked your opinion of what this towel animal was:

What is it? #10

If you guessed it was a swan, you are absolutely correct!

Here’s today’s identification challenge. What is it:

What is it? #11

Enter your answers in the “Replay” area of this page, or send me a message. Let me know you’re out there!

Tomorrow we visit Mo’orea. Hopefully, we’ll have better weather.

G’night!

Two days at sea

Thursday, February 14, 2019 and Friday, February 15, 2019

Where am I?

With Pitcairn far behind, I’m approaching Papeete, Tahiti, French Polynesia very quickly. Should be there tomorrow!

What time is it?

Aboard ship, it’s always easy to know what day it is. For example, yesterday was Valentine’s Day and today…isn’t. Easy peasy. The sun comes up, the sun goes down, and it’s another day!

Knowing what time it is can be a completely different matter.

You may be reading these words from your home or your place of business. Knowing the time of day there is a very uncomplicated thing because you always know what time zone you’re in. Maybe you need to futz with Daylight Saving Time, but even then you only need adjust every timepiece in the place just twice a year.

My (temporary) home is a ship that moves about 400 miles a day. As a result, it is very easy to lose track of what time it is today because the hour changes depending on where we are, or more likely, where we’re going! Let me give you an example.

Look at the following graphic:

The South Pacific

If you look carefully at the border between Perú and Chile you’ll notice that there is a two hour time difference between the two countries. That means as you head south from Perú, the moment you cross into Chile the time is two hours later than it used to be just a second ago!

Time zones are, theoretically, 24 evenly spaced slices on the surface of the earth. If this were actually true, however, the slices would run through the middle of countries, dividing them into time zones that might not accurately reflect local, commercial, or political desires of the affected country. So, time zones are altered (or sometimes completely ignored) by some countries in order to reflect the realities of life in that country. The missing time zone between Perú and Chile, again, is a good example of that.

The ship is like a floating country in regards to time zone observation. It has its own time as determined by the captain and crew, and may (or may not) reflect the actual time zone the ship lies in. A good example of this would be when our ship sailed from Lima, Perú, to Arica, Chile. On the map and as mentioned before, the time changes by two hours as soon as you cross the border. On the ship, however, it is easier on the passengers and crew to manage smaller, one-hour changes instead. So, when we left Lima, the ship set its clocks forward by one hour on the first night at sea, then forward again another hour in time to reach Arica and have the ship’s clocks align with the clocks ashore.

On this trip, so far, we have had a number of these one-hour time changes and that is why it has become difficult to know what time it is if one has not been keeping up with the announcements and setting their clocks and watches accordingly. Here is a list of the time changes we’ve experienced on board this ship that were influenced not only by time zones but by the local time at approaching destinations.

DateSet clocksbyleavingapproaching
2/3forward1hrLima, Perú
2/4forward1hrArica, Chile
2/6back1hrArica, Chile
2/9back1hrEaster Island
2/11back1hrEaster Island
2/12back 1hr
2/13back1hrPitcairn Island
2/14back1hrPitcairn Island
2/15back1hrPapeete, Tahiti

So that is nine time changes in twelve days! Sometimes setting the clock forward, but mostly back. Can you start to see why I’m not always sure what the ship’s time is? In the mornings, one of the first things I do is to consult the ships web portal to see what time is displayed there. Then, I go around and set the time on all of the digital toys that I’ve brought with me. Now, you may be telling yourself, “That’s silly! I’ve driven from Arizona to California and my phone automatically deals with the time zone change for me.” Well, that is very likely true because cellular networks at home send the current local time to everything on their networks, and they do it 24 hours a day. But, here on the ship, even though there is a “Cellular At Sea” cell network, it does not broadcast the ship’s time, so my phone has no clue that the ship’s time has changed. Neither does my iPad, or my computer. So, that’s one of my jobs to do (seemingly) every day shortly after I wake up. 

But, who cares?

After a while you figure out that nobody should really care.

Now that I’ve let off some steam about all this clock setting, let me point out some of the advantages of these time zone changes that I’ve experienced, so far.

Since I’m never quite sure when to adjust my clocks (at night before bed or maybe in the morning when I get up?), I’ve started to just go to sleep when I’m tired and get up when I’m through sleeping. This feels more natural to me and because I’m so clock-driven in “real” life (and I’ll bet you are, too) it feels more relaxed to just rely on the sun and forget what the clock might say. 

If one cannot get the clock out of one’s mind, then here is another way to look at all of the “1 hour back” adjustments: it’s like having a 25-hour day, almost every day! What could you accomplish if you had 25-hour days? I’ve been investing that extra hour in my sleep time. I can now sleep for 10 hours, but according to the clocks, I’ve only been asleep for nine! I know that, for the first time in a long time, I feel completely caught up on sleep. I have absolutely no sleep deficit at this time, and it feels amazing!

So, because we are heading generally west, I should still pick up a few more of these 25-hour days, and I’m OK with that even if I have a new clock-setting chore each morning. Still, a big question looms in my mind and I have no idea how it will be resolved:

What happens when I cross the International Date Line?

Company for dinner

A few friends dropped in for dinner last night. This is just one video I took. Over the course of my dinner I saw five large pods of dolphins. Even the wait staff said that they had never seen so much dolphin activity in a single evening. I see dolphins all the time in Puerto Peñasco, but I never get tired of watching their graceful beauty.

A large and very active pod of dolphins dines beside me

Money Report

I’m all set for shopping in Papeete, Moorea, and Bora Bora ‘cause I’ve got some French Polynesian Francs!

But, that’s a story best left until tomorrow!

G’night!

Pitcairn Island

Wednesday, Feb 13, 2019

Where am I?

We’re anchored at Adamstown, Pitcairn Island

So, what’s been happening?

Today has been very interesting in terms of visiting our port of call. This morning, we rolled up to Pitcairn Island, arriving at about 10:30 (so we got to watch as the island appeared on the horizon and slowly grew closer and closer to us.) This is unusual since most of our arrivals are early in the morning, so our approach is in the dark.

Aerial view of Pitcairn

More things that make this call different from any other that we’ve made so far include:

  • Pitcairn Island has no harbor, so we can’t tie up to a pier
  • It also has no tender dock, so we can’t even go ashore
  • We’re only scheduled to be here for three hours

So, what’s the plan? We can’t go ashore, but we’re going to be bobbing in the water here for three hours. What gives? The captain says we will be circling part of the island. We can’t even circle the entire island because the ship does not have (and, seemingly, can not obtain) reliable sounding depths of the waters to the south of the island. So, are we in a remote part of the world? You betcha! We’re so remote that the ocean depths here have not been reliably plumbed and, apearantly, it’s not important enough to do so owing to the dearth of marine traffic (which is the only kind of traffic on this island.)

Now, here we are, parked in front of this tiny speck of real estate in an otherwise empty ocean. Why? Why are we here?

History of Pitcairn Island

Have you watched the movie “Mutiny on the Bounty”? The 1962 version of the film stars Marlon Brando, and Richard Harris, among others, and received an Academy Award Best Picture nomination in 1963. It’s a great movie and gives you a (dramatized) account of the events of 1788 on the HM Armed Ship Bounty. It’s the story of some severe differences of opinion between Captain Bly and Acting Lieutenant Fletcher Christian that ended with the Captain and several other loyalists being cast off from the Bounty in the ship’s boat while Fletcher Christian and the other mutineers sailed away.

Now comes a long story, and I’m going to skip it here for purposes of brevity. If you don’t know the details between the beginning and the end of the mutiny story you should stop reading now and go watch the movie. Go watch it, then come back. Go on. I’ll wait for you here.

Mutiny on the Bounty

Welcome back! Now, Pitcairn island is where Fletcher Christian, several of the mutineers, and some Tahitian natives ended their search for a place where they might avoid detection and arrest by the British Navy who were patrolling this part of the South Pacific looking for them. As it turns out, Pitcairn was a good choice as a hideout! Why? Because even though the British navy knew about the existence of Pitcairn Island, all of their charts had it located 300 miles away from its actual position. No GPS in those days. 

In order to stay hidden from the British (and to prevent any of the mutineers from leaving the island and reporting where the other mutineers were hiding) the HMS Bounty was burned and sunk in what is now Bounty Bay on Pitcairn Island, in front of what is now Adamstown.

And today, 230+ years later, we are here at Pitcairn island, anchored near the underwater wreck of the HMS Bounty. The real deal! In a way, it’s like visiting a movie set except that this movie set is a historical reality!

Pitcairn Island in the present

There are still some decendants of the mutineers living on Pitcairn Island, but not many. The entire population of the island is considered to be about 34 people, according to one of the islanders who delivered a presentation to us. The population has been shrinking for about 20 years now, and there is some concern that Pitcairn Island will soon cease to be a viable settlement.

Even among those that do not plan to leave the island, there are challenges. For example, the electrical power on the island comes from a diesel generator that only runs during daylight hours. It feeds a small electrical distribution system to bring power to the homes in Adamstown. Sounds pretty normal for island living, except that there is only one man who runs, maintains, and understands how to power up this little place and he is 67 years old! I did not hear of any contingency plans.

We’re being boarded!

Since we cannot go ashore, a longboat full of islanders came out to greet us and to bring handmade crafts, postcards, stamps, and t-shirts directly to us. 

With the help of the crew of the Amsterdam, an outdoor market was set up around the pool area on the Lido deck, and it was an instant hit. I’ve never seen this many passengers at one time on the Lido (mid-ship) since this cruise started and it was a Pitcairn Island souvenir feeding frenzy! Honestly, trying to work my way through the crowd to get to the customs officer was like swimming through frenzied piranhas after somebody innocently placed their bleeding wound in the water just to wash it out. 😏

Open air market with authentic Pitcairn crafts and souvenirs

I was looking for the customs officer because I wanted to get my passport endorsed with the official Pitcairn Island immigration stamp. (And, I got that stamp!) Along the way to the immigration desk I stopped to look at some of the crafts being offered. There were lots of things made from wood including some pieces that would have made excellent candy or appetizer serving plates. One table selling such plates was being operated by a husband and wife islander team whose last name was Christian. I had a hundred questions running through my head, but the shopper-piranhas were too much for me and I simply moved on.

And, the bar staff was kept busy as you can well imagine. Shopping in the tropical sun is thirsty work, but the bar staff (dressed in appropriate costumes to celebrate the day) kept cold drinks coming hand over fist. I know because I watched them for as long as it takes to consume two Anchor Brewery Liberty Ales. (In Matt Danger Tolle time, that’s about 10 minutes.)

Pouring grog hand over fist

In about 3-and-a-half hours time, it was all over. Everybody had whatever souvenirs they wanted (or acquired before they were all gone!) The outdoor market was disassembled, all of the displaced tables and chairs were relocated back to their original position and, “presto!”, everything was back to the way it normally is.

As the islanders boarded their longboat and headed back to their island, the passengers on the Amsterdam prepared to party. As has been a tradition throughout this cruise, we had a sail-away party with happy hour drinks, even though it was only 3:30 in the afternoon! Well, it’s not as if I have to go to work tomorrow, so why not?

Sailing away from Pitcairn Island

All in all, it was a marvelous day spent: 

  • interacting with a very large percentage of the population of Pitcairn Island (14 islanders!)
  • shopping in a Filene’s Basement-style manner
  • enjoying a mid-afternoon happy hour that lead to a lengthy evening of imbibing

Cheers!

http://youtu.be/ir6Hb5xqBIs
Filene’s Basement shopping event, kinda like shopping on the Lido deck.

What is it?

Ok, the previous towel animal to be offered for your analysis was this one:

And most of you guessed correctly that it was the NBC peacock!

So, here’s a new one for you. You may need to use a little more imagination than you did last time. Add your guess via the “Reply” area at the bottom of this post, and forgive my photography.

What is it? #10

Next, we sail for two days and then arrive in Papeete, Tahiti, French Polynesia. So, if you don’t hear from me over the next couple of days, you can probably find me at the bar.

G’night!

Another day at sea

Tuesday, February 12, 2019

Spoiler alert!

This post is offered with equal amounts of truth and cynicism. You know, like most things you might hear me say. If you plan to continue reading this post, please do so with these admissions in mind.

There! You see?

It’s all about the service

Here I sit, somewhere in the vast oneness that is the Pacific Ocean, somewhere between two impossibly remote places (Easter Island and Pitcairn Island), and also somewhere in a corner where I might be overlooked.

Allow me to explain.

I’m aboard a Holland America ship on a cruise around the world. I figure that the cost of the cruise should be closely commensurate with the condition of the ship, the condition of my stateroom, the quality of the food, and (maybe most importantly) the service that is offered. I’ve been aboard now for three weeks and a day, so I think I’ve experienced enough time aboard this vessel to start to make some observations and some judgements.

Condition of the ship

The Amsterdam is a proud lady. She has experience and she has grace. She has been reliable in service and her crew seems to keep her well maintained. I’ve seen maintenance crews working on repairing carpeting, varnishing wood doors, painting, grinding steel, oiling teakwood, and changing light bulbs. There are few signs of any rust, save those streaks running down my window. (Too bad, that.) The Amsterdam is a grand dame of the seas, but she is also old. Old is not bad as it is the source of her grace and experience. Therefore, I can honestly say this ship is in very good condition. Every bit as much as I am.

Condition of my stateroom

My room aboard the Amsterdam is not large. I could have chosen larger accommodations, but decided not to as I am a solo traveller. It is however, very comfortable, with enough closet space for a solo traveller, a queen sized bed, and even a bathtub (not just a shower!) which is a first in my seafaring experience. It is clean (except for that salt-encrusted window I’m always complaining about) and in very good repair. I have no complaints about the condition of my stateroom. However, if offered the Neptune Suite, I would happily make the trade.

Quality of the food

Cruise ships are well known for the food they serve. Most people fear gaining 8-15 pounds per week on a cruise because they know they’ll be gobbling up platters full of great food. The food in the dining room, as well as in the specialty restaurants onboard, looks and tastes wonderful, if a little bland. The food in the Lido Restaurant is about what anybody would expect from a buffet-style setting. The presentation is lacking there, unless you are accustomed to slightly over-warmed food haphazardly slapped down on a plate and slid beneath a sneeze guard in your general direction. However, you can obtain food there at nearly any reasonable hour and if you happen to still be in your wet bathing suit, nobody seems to care. So, overlooking the Lido Restaurant for now, I can say that the food onboard is very good and that the choices and selections of entrées at each meal is surprisingly broad. Still, I brought (and am using) my bottle of Walkerswood Jamaican Jerk seasoning, almost daily.

Offered service

The Amsterdam is referred to as a “medium sized” ship. There are about 1,000 passengers aboard. I would really have to say that the ratio of ship staff to passenger headcount is amazingly high. And, I’m only talking about the service staff, not those people working where I can’t see them! There are bartenders and drink servers, there are cooks and bus persons, there are stateroom attendants and their assistants, and they are all everywhere all the time.

That should be a good thing.

It also seems to me that, as part of their training, they have been coached to be outward, friendly, and engaging. My stateroom attendant and I are on a first name basis and I’m obliged to stop and chat with her when I see her. Not surprisingly, perhaps, I’m also on a first name basis with two of the bartenders, one on each end of the Lido deck. So, wherever I go, I’m met with a smile, a fist bump (handshaking is frowned on around here), and a hearty “Hello, sir Robert!”

Even the guy who makes sandwiches at lunchtime greets me with “Good afternoon, sir Robert!” I find this particularly amusing as his name happens to be “King.” Perhaps I’ve been spending too much time at “Cigars under the Stars” re-watching Game of Thrones episodes from the beginning.

After twenty two days aboard, I’ve even been introduced to a half-dozen bus persons who take pride in calling me by name and engaging me in light conversation whenever they see me, even if my table is not in need of bussing. Bar servers are always asking me if I need anything, if my drink is satisfactory, or if I’m planning to go to the big “disco is not dead” dance tonight.

All of these shiny, happy people are all around me, all the time, always trying to help. That should be a good thing.

So, why am I here, sitting in a remote corner of a little-visited deck hoping to be overlooked? Because, the service here is so damn good that, at times, I can barely stand it!

When it becomes difficult to read a book, or watch an episode of my favorite television show, or finish my meal before it gets cold, all because the service is so omnipresent and energetic, that’s when good service can be just too much. Sometimes I just want to be left alone and I’m finding that time to be a rare commodity.

I have much more to say on this topic, but here comes King (probably on his break) heading straight for me with a sandwich in his hand, so I doubt I’ll have much more time for typing today. It’s time for Sir Robert to lace up his social armor, draw his verbal sword, and prepare to go into battle for his precious “alone time.” I may not look as handsome as Jaime Lannister, but you might yet call me King Slayer!

A day at Sea

Monday, February 11, 2019

Where am I?

I’ve left Easter Island, and I’m on my way to the Pitcairn Islands

So, here’s what’s on my mind

This evening while returning to my stateroom to freshen up for dinner I found this letter in my mail drop. It has to do with that mess of events that led to some very unhappy passengers while we were at Easter Island.

If you recall my previous post, there were problems associated with getting people on and off of the tenders. Those problems slowed the process way down. And on the surface, the math for how long it took to load a tender and how many people wanted to go ashore did not equate to everybody being happy. Some win and some lose. It’s the luck of the draw, right? First come, first served. It’s only fair. (OK, I’m now out of cliches.)

But, there’s more to this story, and the situation is slightly more complex than it might seem on the surface. When I showed up for my shore excursion, there were already people who had been waiting hours to go ashore. Yet my group was called before those who had been waiting for a very long time. I got to go ashore, some others who queue up earlier did not. Was I just lucky? Well, it should be clear to all of you that I’ve been very lucky for most of my life, but I don’t think luck had much to do with me getting ashore while others waited (im)patiently and never made it.

Why would that happen? I have every reason to believe its all about the Benjamins.

Shore tours – Second party vs. Third party tours

The way I see it, you have three options for what you do when you go ashore.

The first option is to wing it! Be adventurous and blaze a trail of your own. Just get off and walk around, or do some planning and then hire a cab to take you to the places you’re interested in. This can be fun and it’s likely to be the cheapest option when you go ashore. If you’re looking to save money, you can certainly accomplish that this way.

Another option is to book a tour with a third party. Essentially, this is what the cruise ships do: they book with local tour conductors who meet their standards. The cruise ship handles all of the bookings then pays the local company. Passengers who are willing to spend some time doing research about their ports of call can often find those same tours conducted by the same operators for 10% to 50% off the cruise ship price. This option allows passengers in this category to enjoy the same experiences as other passengers who booked through the cruise ship company, but save some money in doing so. Same experience, less money! Sounds great.

Then, there is the opportunity to book directly through the cruise line. This is the most expensive option because the tour conductors still get the amount they need, but the cruise line adds a premium so they can make money on the tours as well! So, why would anybody ever book through the cruise line if you get the same tour as those who went directly to the third party and paid less? What do you get for that premium?

Well, for one, you get a guarantee that if your tour does not return you to the ship by the time the ship is scheduled to depart, the ship will wait for you to arrive. You only get this guarantee if you book through the ship line.

Personally, I have seen situations where passengers with third party bookings arrive late to the port only to watch their cruise ship steam off toward the horizon.

In contrast, on this cruise, a few people on a cruise-sponsored shore excursion were trapped in Fuerte Amador in horrible traffic resulting from a fatal accident. In this case, the ship waited for them because that’s one of the things you get (a guarantee) when you book through the ship.

In the case of the Easter Island fiasco, the other side of that same coin appeared for the first time in my experience, and that is where a passenger is given priority departure and guaranteed reboarding. If you book your tour through the ship (or even before you sail) the ship has a financial interest in you taking that tour. If your tour is cancelled, you get a full refund and the ship makes no money on you. Multiply that by a couple of hundred people and the captain has a decision to make: if time constraints will not allow everybody to go ashore that desires to do so, who do we let go? The decision is between those people who have chosen to do their shore excursion via one of the first two methods I mentioned and who have likely been waiting in line for hours to leave the ship, or the ones who have paid money to go ashore, money that the cruise line will need to refund if they don’t go?

Before you decide which is the right decision for the captain to make, keep in mind that cruise ships are here to make money for the cruise line and the captain is an employee of that cruise line. I think you have the complete picture now. And for the travelers that decided to “go it on their own,” well as they say, you pays your money and you takes your chances.

What to do?

Personally, on this cruise, I have a mix of second party (the cruise line) and third party (dealing directly with the vender) shore excursions lined up. For Easter Island, I booked with the cruise line and that turned out to be a solid, if slightly more expensive, investment. Why did I do that? Because, for me, Easter Island was very important as a place to stop and look around. It was important enough that I was willing to pay extra to book with the cruise line as a form of insurance. In this case, that insurance paid off!

In other places, like my approaching visit to Cairns, Australia, I’ve taken a more casual approach. I’ve booked a Segway tour that starts a couple of hours after we are to dock, and ends many hours before we are to depart. Any slack time will be used to explore town on foot. Plus, if the whole experience were not to happen, the amount of money that I’d be out is a burden I think I can bear.

What would you do? Save money? Operate with a guarantee? A little of both?

In any case, this incident of disappointed travelers drives home the benefits of planning one’s trip well in advance, giving oneself time to do the required research, and asking oneself about the importance (vs. the cost) of future plans at each port of call.

That’s it for today. No photos. Just dribble.