Month: April 2019

Thursday, April 4, 2019

I’ve come out of India and I’m now headed for Arabia. My first stop is in Muscat, Oman on the tip of the Arabian peninsula.

Where am I?

The first thing I saw when I went out to the balcony this morning.

What’s been happening?

I really wanted to get out and explore this little place in the middle of nowhere-in-particular. Typically, this means booking a tour. Well, none of the HAL tours really looked good, and Muscat is a relatively small city in the desert with little around it but sand and mountains. So, I decided to take the Hop On Hop Off (HOHO) bus to see the sights.

The first thing I noticed was the price of the tour. I’ve taken other HOHOs in other ports and the price was always between $20 and $30. Here, the price was $75. I’m not altogether sure why the price is so different from the other ports, but I was told that everything is more expensive in Oman. I can’t say that I believe this is true as I saw liquor in the duty free shop at American prices. So, who knows?

Our bus left the cruise ship terminal at about 10:30am and the weather was already hot, hot, hot. The HOHO bus is a double decker and I wanted to sit on the top deck to get better photos, but I also wanted to stay out of the sun. Fortunately for me, about a third of the top deck of the bus was covered with an awning which worked well for me. There was no A/C, but I was out of the sun and able to snap photos of interesting sights as we drove by them.

After leaving the ship’s docking area we were immediately in the old town traffic. This was fine with me since the slower pace made it easier to take photos. Here are a couple shots of the esplanade that runs around the harbor.

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There were two ships parked in the harbor that were most prominently on display. You can see them in the photo on the right. Can you identify them? Well, those two yachts belong to Sultan Qaboos bin Said and they both look like they just came from the manufacturer. Here’s a closer look.

Absolutely pristine!

There are lots of buildings in Muscat, but I couldn’t help but notice that all of the really pretty ones belonged to the government. For example:

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Oh, and here’s an interesting bit that I picked up on the tour bus: All buildings in Muscat must be one of two colors, white or cream. There are also height restrictions created to spur the city to build out and not up.

The esplanade is also peppered with beautiful parks with lush green lawns. I saw one that also had a beautiful fountain in the style of the Bellagio in Las Vegas.

Our tour also took us to the most popular beach in Muscat called Shatti Al Qurum. It truly is a beautiful beach and, although the water there is too treacherous for swimming, it is common to see the men enjoying a cool stroll through the shallow water close to the shore.

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I think that the women would not venture out into the water for fear of getting their abayas wet or sandy. Or perhaps a well turned ankle would be considered just a little too risqué for the neighborhood.

I did notice that Muscat is a very clean city, especially in those areas where tourists or dignitaries my take in the sights.

Education for the children is free in all of Oman, at least through high school.

In the 16th century, Muscat was a province of Portugal. The Portuguese built a number of forts around the natural harbor to protect it from raids conducted by the Ottoman empire. Twice, the Ottoman Empire took Muscat from the Portuguese, so the Portuguese built more forts. Here are some photos of the beautifully preserved and restored forts around the old port area.

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At the same time these forts were built, Muscat was a walled city with massive doors that would be opened each morning and closed every night, or in case of attack.

In addition to this colorful lore, there are two cannons that are lovingly preserved just outside of the walls. These cannons would be fired before sunset to warn anybody outside of the walls that the gates would soon be closing. Anybody not inside the walls before the gates closed would have to find shelter elsewhere until the sun came up the next day.

Muscat’s central market, the Suuq, really has the look and feel of an ancient marketplace like you might expect to see anywhere in the Arab world. It can be found on the esplanade where it has been for centuries. Notice, however, that the front of the Suuq has been modernized with a veneer of a western Galleria shopping center. Behind the façade the market looks largely unchanged from how it might have looked centuries ago.

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And, of course, when you visit exotic places you seek out exotic foods. Here are some of the places I found during our tour that caught my eye.

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Now, there was one thing I saw that is not like anything I’ve seen anywhere else in the world. It is the world’s largest incense burner!

Ok, I lied. This tower is intended to look like an incense burner, but it is merely a lookout tower built as part of a celebration of Oman’s 20th National Day. I didn’t go up into it but I’m sure that the view from inside would be lovely.

At the end of the tour (which lasted about three hours) we were brought back to the ship. I made a quick stop in the duty free shop looking for cigars. No luck. I also wanted to use the free wi-fi but the “free” wi-fi network was “all full.” I could, however, purchase wi-fi at the Internet café immediately adjacent to the the duty free shop. The man running the duty-free shop said he would be happy to get me started on the paid wi-fi. It seems that he owned both enterprises. I declined.

Our ship pulled out of Muscat just before sunset. The harbor really is beautiful and our visit here seemed so brief.

I left Muscat very impressed with its modern look and its clean streets. It seemed like a lawful place where everybody conformed to the rules of the culture. Still, I’m very sure that I would not last long in Muscat. For me, it was a wonderful place to visit, but a long stay here would not be fun for me or anybody else. I just couldn’t shake the idea that too much of what I saw was window dressing that attempted to cover up a darker side that I was not supposed to see. Could that be? Or was it just because of the things I was shown on the tour. I’ll never know for sure.

So, what’s coming up?

Lots of days at sea.

G’night!

Monday, April 1, 2019
Tuesday, April 2, 2019
Wednesday, April 3, 2019

We’re back out on the lonely seas. But, are we truly alone? Apparently, there’s a chance for company!

Where am I?

SO, WHAT’S BEEN HAPPENING

Let me start off with this nice sunset departure from Mumbai.

As we set sail from Mumbai, each stateroom received this letter from the captain of the ship.

On Tuesday, we actually had a “pirate raid” drill. The staff manned their “battle stations” including a hyper-sound projector (sonic cannons), water cannons, and the captain prepared to make “evasive maneuvers.” I really don’t know if any of the weapons were actually deployed because passengers participating in the drill were asked to leave their staterooms and go out into the hallway until the “all clear” was sounded. I followed those instructions.

I am sure that no real “evasive maneuvers” were performed since I did not fall down in the hallway while waiting for the drill to end.

In theory, we’re as ready as we can be if Somali pirates try to board us. On the other hand, piracy in these waters is more of an historical event. So I’m not really worried. Very much.

As we approach Muscat, Oman, I’m happy to tell you that I have not seen pirates, and I’m sure that Johnny Depp is not on board. Still, I find myself scanning the horizon from time to time.

Anything else?

I’m making good progress toward the end of the book I’m reading. It’s called The Outsider, written by Stephen King. It’s a good story. So good, in fact, that I’m burning through the pages and expect to finish it very soon. For those that know my reading habits, that must sound like an impossibility. We’ll see.

What’s coming up?

Tomorrow, I’m in Muscat, Oman. I’m not really sure what to expect there, but I’m certainly going ashore to see what’s what.

Sunday, March 31, 2019

This is my last port of call in India. As I complete this visit and start to write, I’m choosing to write in a different manner. This time, I’m not writing chronologically, and I’m not writing geographically. Instead, I’m going to write thematically.

Where am I?

The good

Mumbai is a very, very old place and there have been many different cultures present here over the centuries. If one looks around, there can be seen traces of all these different cultures. In those traces can be seen beautiful artistry, deeply felt religion, and attempts to understand and be one with nature.

For example, on my first day in Mumbai I went out to the caves on Elephanta island. These caves can be found on a hill by climbing a path that holds 120 uneven steps between the bottom and the top. The caves were originally just plain natural caves. Over the years, the people who lived in ancient Mumbai started to enlarge them and in the process created exquisite panels carved from the rock that told the story of Shiva.

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The Elephanta caves, which were once a place of worship, are a UNESCO site that demonstrates their cultural importance. UNESCO also provides the means to preserve and protect the caves and the works of art within from any further destruction (accidental or intentional.)

It appears that the wildlife on Elephanta also enjoys the protection of UNESCO and the generosity (sometimes involuntary) of visitors.

There is also some beautiful architecture in Mumbai, especially that which remains from the era of British occupation. A wonderful example of that would be the Gateway to India, seen here.

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Other old and beautiful architecture can be found in the old downtown area of Mumbai.

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The views around the harbor are varied and colorful. The sea is beautiful everywhere one can see it, and Mumbai is certainly no different in this regard.

And, ultimately, Mumbai’s most beautiful treasures must be the decent people who live there. They can be seen everywhere, working hard, smiling, and making their way through life, day in and day out. This is something that is not always easy, and it shows.

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The bad

Mumbai may be the financial capitol of India, and it may have some beautiful people but, like most places in the world, there is a dark side. Much of India’s money may be here in this city, but not everybody has access to it. As a result, Mumbai certainly has its trouble with trouble.

Another problem here is the overcrowding. Streets are clogged and people are jammed together nearly everywhere. The population of the city of Mumbai is more than twice the population of the entire state of Arizona. All of that crowding causes short tempers in traffic and so the car horn must be the national musical instrument. Now, take people selling their wares, dense traffic with car, taxi, and bus horns providing a never-ending cacophony, and you can start to imagine Mumbai as a noisy place. And, it is. 24/7.

The ugly

Most of the people that I know back in the U.S. have accepted that we need to reduce, reuse, and recycle. I’m one of those people. So it breaks my heart to see places that are so littered and and show such a lack of care.

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And it’s not just individuals carelessly tossing cans, papers, or plastic bags. There’s also industrial waste and pollution to be seen, and in the cases of the following photos, it can be seen right in the middle of the very places of beauty that I showed you earlier in this post.

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My visit to India has been a richly colorful experience. I’ve seen the pursuit of inner truth, and the creation of architectural beauty. I’ve seen some impressive generosity, and have also been warned about thievery. I’ve seen places that have been lovingly cared for, and others where everyday waste needlessly collects.

I’m very happy to have visited this place, the home of yoga, of nirvana, and of hinduism. I have a better appreciation for the underpinnings of the many different societies that make up the country known as India. Yet, I have also seen it as an imperfect place with overtaxed resources and careless abuse. I’ve seen it as a place where people subscribe to a religion that focuses on the inner self, while seemingly allow its environment to suffer. So, while my visit here was too short, I doubt that I will return. Of all the foreign places I’ve visited on this cruise, this one seems the most foreign of all. And, being in a place that is so foreign, my desire to see home once again grows stronger.

So, what’s coming up?

Next, the Amsterdam crosses the Arabian Sea and touches on the Arabian peninsula.

G’night!

Saturday, March 30, 2019

We’re back at sea for a day, so it’s another “sea day.” Always relaxing, sometimes surprising!

Where am I?

SO, WHAT’S BEEN HAPPENING

Today, since we were at sea, I spent most of the day sleeping, relaxing, trying not to eat too much, and reading. I think I’ll actually be able to finish an entire book before this cruise is over. If you know me well, you know that it can take up to a year for me to complete a novel. So, with sea days, I’m reading at what I would call a voracious rate.

Still, there was a nifty surprise today. Some of the crew put together a little impromptu talent show for the benefit of the passengers, mostly those passengers that hang out at the Sea View Bar.

These people are not professional singers, and that should be very apparent if you watch the video. Neither is anybody playing an instrument (including iPad drums) a professional musician. These are just some crew members sharing with us passengers a little bit of how they entertain themselves on those two decks way below our own.

I’m very happy to say that almost everyone of these crew members that you’ll see performing have become my friends. So, even though they are not professional performers, their performance reminds me of sitting around a campfire and the beach, drunk as skunks, just doing what we liked to do, which mainly was just enjoying each others company. Well, camp fires are frowned upon on the Lido deck (and other decks, too) but even without one, the feelings of being surrounded by friends, having a good time, and swimming in “joie de vivre” are alive and well on the Amsterdam. Oh, that fancy phrase I just used? That’s french for “laissez les bons temps rouler.”

So here you go!

Anything else?

On these “sea days,” I spend my time doing things to relax. I’ve shared with you some of those things, as well as views of the ship, and other tidbits.

Is there anything that you’d like to hear about or see? If so, let me know and I’ll try to fill you (and the rest of us) in! I’m asking because we’re sailing into the middle east very soon, and there will be lots of “sea days” (11 out of 14, to be exact.) I may just run out of things to tell you about. On the other hand, this could be the blessing you’ve been looking for.

What is it?

So, can you guess what this is?

Ok, I’m not going to leave you guessing this time. I’ll tell you.

This is one of the passengers leaving the buffet, carrying her salad bowl!

Her name is probably Julie. I dunno.

What’s coming up?

Tomorrow, I’m in Mumbai, formerly known as Bombay. Now, if you’ll excuse me, I’m suddenly craving a gin and tonic.

Friday, March 29, 2019

This is our first (of two) port of call in India. I have some mixed feelings about this country, but I’m willing to get out there and see what India has to offer.

Where am I?

So, what’s been happening?

This morning when I woke up, I stepped outside onto my balcony and this is the sight I beheld.

At first, Kochi (also known as Cochin) looked like a nice rustic little place. As it turns out, the people with balconies on the other side of the ship saw something completely different. They saw a large metropolitan area. Personally, I prefer the view you see above. We are actually looking across a “lake” that is connected to the ocean on both sides. On the other side of this “lake” is the Old Fort area which is where I spent my time today.

Our bus took us into Old Fort which is very close “as the crow flies” or by boat. On the city streets, it’s quite a trek. The streets in Kochi are narrow and crowded, so driving anywhere takes some time. But, the scenery was interesting along the way. Some of these photos will look like they have a blue-green tint to them. This is because they were shot through a bus window. Click on any of them to see a larger version.

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Kochi has a long history. People were living here will before the 15th century when the Portuguese came to town and declared the place as their own. Later, the Dutch (in 1663) took Kochi from the Portuguese and kept it as a colony for more than 100 years. In 1814 the British took over Kochi as part of a treaty with the Dutch. As we drive to the Old Fort area, there are many examples of all three eras, as well as of current-day Kochi.

The tour for today was to visit a museum and stage where we would be educated and entertained by a small troupe of dancers performing Kathakali dance, but more on that later.

Our walk also took us past the headquarters of the Communist Party of Kochi. Judging by all of the political advertising I saw all over town, there must be an election coming soon. With that in mind, I’m sure that the Communist Party was using its headquarters to show the electorate how much the lives of the citizens of Kochi would improve if the party of the red flag were to be elected en masse.

Just before we arrived at the museum/theater this sign tried to induce us to stop in for some very tasty, but perhaps not too attractive food. Most of us had enjoyed a large breakfast, so nobody on the tour was inclined to detour from our intended destination.

Eventually, we found the theater building. It was a very nice looking place in the middle of a very chaotic neighborhood. I, for one, was happy to get inside the building and to the safety it afforded from the crazy traffic on the street. BTW, we were also walking on the street, as sidewalks were practically non-existent. So we had to learn how to “mix in” with the two, three, and four wheeled vehicles on every side of us.

Inside the building was a long hallway. As we entered, a nice museum was to our left (which did not allow photos, sorry) a restaurant on the right, and a theater at the back. Down the hallway was some absolutely beautiful pieces of religious art.

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We were ushered inside the theater which was small (about 100 chairs) and dark. I kinda liked the darkness as it helped to hide what I thought might be things I really didn’t want to see. But, that’s just one man’s opinion/delusion.

But before I continue, let me write a bit about Kathakali.

Kathakali is a dance style that is unique and traditional to the area around Kochi. It is an intense form of dance that involves using gestures, expressions and eye movements to tell ancients stories. To me, it felt like some crazy cross between opera and kabuki (Noh) as they might be performed for the deaf. Like ballet, student of Kathakali will study for many years (usually twelve) two learn the expressions and movements of the dance style. You can learn more about that in the following video.

NOTE: I recommend changing the resolution of the following video to the best that your Internet connection will allow.

Although I did record our entire performance, it is too large to upload and display here. Still, I’ll show you the very end of the dance (which lasted in its entirety a good twenty minutes!) where the evil demon Choothu kills the beautiful young woman. But, I’m getting ahead of myself.

Before the show started, one of the actors came out on stage and showed us how he applied his very dramatic makeup. In the dance to be performed, this man would become the green-faced demon, Choothu.

In the dance, Choothu tries to seduce a woman who is known to be the most beautiful in the land. He is unsuccessful in his wooing, and ultimately kills the woman because she rejects him. Here is the last few minutes of the play as it was presented to us.

Now, if the woman in the dance performance does not strike you as all that beautiful, please consider that female parts in Kathakali are often played by men. That was the case in this theater.

After the play, the actors were nice enough to allow us to come up on stage individually for photos. So, here’s my proof that I was actually there.

After the performance we all risked our lives to return to the bus. The bus driver then risked our lives returning us to the ship. Still, along the way I found a few sights that I thought might be fun to share.

First, there’s this beautiful Royal Enfield motorcycle. Royal Enfield used to be a british motorcycle brand and was a rare treat to find when I first started riding motorcycles in 1967. Although they are now made in India, the styling of the bikes still looks like 1940’s and 50’s british motorcycle legends like Triumph and BSA. Look closely and you’ll see that they still make these bikes with drum brakes!

So, enough with motorcycle nerdity. Let’s move on.

On the road home (but still in Old Fort) we passed this rather interesting clinic that seems to provide natural health services for the gay community. (?)

And, finally, what would a drive through any town in southern India be like without a parade of tuk-tuks.

Once I was back aboard ship, I took a quick shower (the heat and humidity of this place simply cannot be described) and headed to the Sea View bar on the Lido deck, aft, for our happy hour sail-away. Just before departure, I snapped these quick photos.

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So, our quick stop in Kochi was very interesting, educational, and entertaining. If any of you, gentle readers, were to consider a visit here, I could recommend it, but only go during a season when the weather is cooler, like in August.

So, what’s coming up?

We have left Kochi and will spend a day at sea, followed by two days in Mumbai.

G’night!