Wednesday, April 10, 2019
Thursday, April 11, 2019
After many days at sea, we arrive in Aqaba, Jordan. This is an unusual part of the world where four countries lie within visual distance of each other.
Where am I?
What did I see, first thing this morning?
What’s been happening?
Today, I woke up to my third day of fever, coughing, runny nose, and a general malaise. If I was smart I would have stayed in bed all day (again) but today was the day I was booked to go to Petra. I simply could not pass on this trip. So, I stumbled out of bed and got myself ready to go.
On day 1 of Aqaba, before we left the ship, the people I had arranged to visit Petra with told me that I didn’t look very healthy. Then, on day 2 of Aqaba they told me about having this discussion with me. I was surprised to hear about it because it was all news to me. Why? I guess I was so feverish and out of it that I didn’t (and still don’t) remember even greeting them before we departed. As I write this, I’m very happy that I didn’t decide to go it alone for that trip as I needed to be watched over. Thank goodness for friends!
We left the ship at about 8:30 and jumped on the bus to Petra. Petra was an almost two hour ride from Aqaba, which included a brief stop at a Bedouin-owned store/soda fountain/Hookah café/museum/general store.
On the way into the “store” I passed by this display. Can you see why it caught my eye?
Our stop was brief, thankfully, as the day was to be a long one and we were just getting started. Already I was wishing it was over.
Before much longer, we were at the main gate to the ancient city of Petra. The following photo was not taken by me and does not reflect the crowds that were present on the day I was there. Honestly, there was a huge crowd.
Once inside, a visitor must decide how they prefer to get to the ruins. The path leads downhill into the city, so the trip down to the city is not too tough, even though it is just over a one mile walk. So, obviously, walking down is your first choice.
Another choice is going down (and back up again, if you like) by horseback. The cost of this is actually included in your price of admission, so it is “free.” However, the guys with the horses are all expecting a $20-30 tip for their services, so horseback is not really free.
Another choice is to take a horse-drawn carriage. The cost for this is about $50-60. The “jockeys” really drive these horses hard, likely because they get paid by the trip. The ride is very jostling and one person that I know said that on the ride back “they could feel every nail in the seat!”
Finally, there were a couple of 6-passenger golf carts that would allow you to travel in relative style and comfort for just $180 a cartload. That means you’re only paying that shrewd Beduin about $90 a mile! But, in order to really experience the beauty and wonder of the trip down, one needs to walk and I’m so glad that I did.
The first signs of the ancient Nabatean people (the people who built Petra) are the djinn blocks. Each djinn block is a cube-like stone carving that (I’m told) were homes to spirits. Some others say they are unfinished tombs, although no bodies have ever been found inside of a block.
Near the djinn blocks are some of the unfinished ancient tombs carved out of the sandstone. Sandstone is a very soft substance and is relatively easy to carve out. These tombs (and, in fact, all of the stone carvings of Petra) were started at the top and then the work proceeded to the bottom. In the photo below you can see the start of one of these tombs near the top of the hill. If you look closely you can see a stair-step design that represented the path to heaven.
About half way through the walk to the city you enter the siq. The siq is a narrow passage between the rocks. It is about a half mile long and very dramatic!
The siq is carved with alters, images of the gods and more unfinished tombs. Although each of the squares cut into the walls used to contain an image of a god, the Byzantines took over Petra at one time and defaced (quite literally) each of the gods so that they would not be recognizable. To the Byzantines, there was only one God.
One of my favorite carvings in the siq is the one below. Click on it to enlarge the image then study it for a moment. Can you tell what it depicts (or, at least, used to depict?)
Let’s talk about this one. You can most certainly see the feet of a man wearing a robe. To the left you can also see something else. If you were clever you may have determined that those are the front feet of a camel. OK, that is the easy part.
I’ll bet you missed the part of the carving on the wall above the camel feet. If you look very carefully, you can see the entire camel! This particular carving was found buried in sand up to the waist of the man. The top part was exposed to the elements. Therefore, the top part weathered away while the bottom part was more protected. I hope you can see the whole thing now!
Once you reach the end of the siq, the passageway opens up to one of the greatest sand carvings ever created. It is called “the Treasury.” It was never used as an actual treasury, though. Many believe it was used for burial rights and other forms of worship. Its location certainly indicates that it was created to inspire awe in anybody visiting the city.
The Treasury is, for many, the point of the trip. Some people, especially those who have mobility issues, turn around here and go back to the main gate after a brief time to take in the majesty of this one carving. Some folks take in some of the other amusements to be found here, like taking a camel ride.
For those willing to walk another mile or so, there are many more sights to behold. Here are just a couple.
At this point in the trip I was starting to feel very weak and a bit light headed. My hiking partner, Mollie, and I started back for the top where the main gate is. I made it back safely and without passing out, but I did require a few rest stops along the way.
Oddly enough, my camera must have been infected with the same virus that was attacking me because it captured a picture exactly the way I was seeing it with my own feverish eyes.
Once we reached the top of the hill and exited the main gate, we were treated to a nice buffet lunch and a cold beer at the Mövenpick Resort Petra.
The trip back home was uneventful and I’m pretty sure I slept through most of the ride.
I have so many more photos of Petra. When I get home I’ll be happy to show them to anybody that might ask.
What about the second day?
Although I had visited Petra, I had not really seen much of Aqaba, so I took the shuttle bus into town the next day. I was feeling a bit better (after 13 hours of sleep) but still had not gained my full strength back.
One of our guests lecturers on the ship had recommended an English pub in town where one could pull a nice pint of beer and enjoy good wi-fi service. That sounded like just what I needed so I sought it out.
I found the place she told us about but it was a major disappointment. They only had three beers available, none of them English and none of them of the craft variety. Also, the wi-fi sucked. After a single pint of Heineken, I left disappointed.
When I returned to the ship, I was told that the hot wings place three doors away had great food, lots of beers, and fast wi-fi. I’m starting to ask myself where I fell off of the train to Good Karma.
So, what’s coming up?
Lots of days at sea, and the Suez Canal.
G’night!
Hi Robert. Sorry you’re not feeling good i am really excited in the place your at right know. Have fun.!!!!
I’m glad you’re on the mend. It has to be so hard to be under the weather on a trip like this. It’s crazy to think of missing a chance to visit even one of these stops.
Wow! These Middle East destinations are still so intriguing to me. I know I keep saying that. I think I feel like I’ll never get to go for some reason. Must explore that thought process further!