Semarang, Java, Indonesia

Wednesday, March 20, 2019

Java is our last stop in Indonesia.

Where am I?

It seems like the ports of call are coming at me with lightning speed. Today was my third port in four days. Perhaps I was just getting used to the pace set by my trans-Pacific crossing. Oh, well. Doesn’t matter. We’re here and it’s time I went ashore.

So, what’s been happening?

Today I enjoyed another tour that I booked through EXC, Holland America’s shore excursion arm. The tour included a couple of very nice stops where I was able to drench myself in the local culture, and that is one of my goals for this cruise.

For starters, let me tell you about the buses that cart us around to all of these exotic places. Here is a very good example of the bus I was in today.

These ultra-modern buses are very comfortable and air conditioned. Most of them offer in-transit wi-fi, though I think this must be a service that is paid for by whomever charters the bus. On more than one occasion when I was on one of these busses, the outside displayed the wi-fi graphic and I could find the wi-fi network with my iPhone, but the network was not connected to the outside world. When I asked about the wi-fi, in all cases I was told, “Oh, it doesn’t work.” What a coincidence.

Here in Java, I found that the bus ride to the attractions could also be part of the cultural education experience. For example, just looking through the bus window I was greeted by sights like these.

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Stop #1 – Ambarawa Train ride

I really love trains. Have I told you that before? And here, near Semarang, is a museum that offers rides on “ancient” trains. These trains are pulled by steam power and the cars we rode in are over 100 years old. This is the Ambarawa Railway Museum.

The museum grounds are like somebody’s well maintained back yard. Everything is clean, and trimmed. The restrooms are configured to accommodate everybody, no matter whether you are western or eastern.

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The train ride was just about ten kilometers and took us through town and across the very edge of a lake where rice is grown and fish are farmed. Yes, that farm tilapia you order at the restaurant or bought at the supermarket might have been farmed right here in this lake.

(NOTE: the conditions under which these fish are “farmed” did not increase my desire to have farm-fresh tilapia for dinner tonight, or any night, actually.)

How about taking in a little of the ride between Ambarawa and Polosiri?

OK, then. All aboard!

Stop #2 – Borobudur temple

The next place we visited was an amazing spectacle. The temple at Borobudur is an ancient buddhist temple that is cultural, spiritual, and incredibly artistic. It was constructed in the 9th century and is astoundingly well preserved.

The temple, aside from having intricately carved stone images which tell the history of the life of Buddha, also has levels that portray different significances in the path to enlightenment and (ultimately) nirvana. In order to help me explain the rich subtext of this monument, allow me to share with you an aerial view, and a diagram of that view to assist.

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The monument’s three divisions symbolize the three “realms” of Buddhist cosmology, namely Kamadhatu (the world of desires), Rupadhatu (the world of forms), and finally Arupadhatu (the formless world).

Ordinary sentient beings (especially me) live out their lives on the lowest level, the realm of desire. These levels are square and each and every wall is carved in a bas relief running story of the life of Buddha. Here are some photos from the Kamadhatu.

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Those who have burnt out all desire for continued existence leave the world of desire and live in the world on the level of form alone: they see forms but are not drawn to them. Sixty days at sea with our complement of elderly passengers is rapidly qualifying me for this level. I spent extra time examining the temple at this level, as well as my inner self. Here are some photos of the second level.

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Finally, full Buddhas go beyond even form and experience reality at its purest, most fundamental level, the formless ocean of nirvana. I’m sure I’ll never reach this level of enlightenment, even with an unlimited supply of gummy bears.

This highest level of the temple (representing nirvana, the total lack of form or desire) is covered in stupas which are bell shaped structures. Inside each stupa there is a Buddha. There are 72 of these large stupas positioned around circular levels of the monument at this, the highest level.

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Aside from the religious aspects of this beautiful place, its height above the surrounding area provides spectacular views.

Whatever goes up must come down, and so it was for me. Once I had absorbed as much of the breathtaking views of the temple and its surrounds as I could, I began my decent.

Climbing down all of the many, steep steps was actually more strenuous (and scary!) than climbing up. It took some time to reach the bottom, but then again, I was following behind (and providing verbal support) for a woman in her 80s who attempted and completed the climb to the top. By the time she reached the bottom of the last step of the temple, there was a subdued and polite round of applause for her from about 10 people that had decided to participate (at least spiritually) with her in her slow but confident trek.

After the climb, an al fresco buffet lunch was served at a restaurant that adjoined the temple area. Nothing too fancy, just some traditional Indonesian food. One thing that did catch my eye, though, was this piece of art at the entrance to the restaurant. I don’t know why I like it, I just do. I think that the ox is saying, “Put down that damn flute or I’ll throw you off!”

After lunch we started walking back to the bus that was parked about a block and a half away. During our walk, it started to rain. I was very happy to be walking in the rain rather than traversing the steep, and now slick steps of the monument.

With one brief stop for refreshments during the ninety minute drive back to the ship, our return was blessedly uneventful.

SO, anything else?

I mentioned in an earlier post that I did not enjoy my visit to Bali very much, and that I had no real desire to return there. Semarang has been a completely different experience. Though this island is only slightly more advanced than Bali, and even though the roads here are still vary narrow and packed with vehicles that are either too large for the size of the roads (trucks and busses) or too small and aggressively driven (motorbikes), I liked what I saw of Java.

I have also been impressed with Indonesia as a cultural melting pot. The population of Bali is mostly Hindu. The population of Java is mostly muslim. Despite the major differences in these two religions, this nation of people seem to be well integrated and very tolerant of their mutual differences. This may not have been true through history, but it certainly seems true now, at least to me.

I don’t think of Indonesia as a touristy place filled with resorts serving fu-fu umbrella drinks. But I do feel that there is plenty in this country to satisfy those who are searching for deeper meaning in life, rather than merely a warm beach and a cool cocktail.

This has been my last stop in Indonesia. Taken as a whole, I don’t think I’ll be planning a return any time soon. But, at the same time, I feel like I have learned much here, and it has given me time and opportunity to explore a stronger spiritual link between my inner self and the world around me.

So, what’s coming up?

We have a day at sea, and then a visit to Singapore!